February 2010

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Worker shortage and credit squeeze stokes worries about Chinese costs

Hong Kong businesses expressed their annual fears over imminent crisis in China, as worries grew over migrant workers' reluctance to return to jobs in the coastal provinces. The problem is partly the result of China's continuing economic growth, more jobs in the western provinces and the growing attraction of agriculture. But, as traditional sources of migrant labour are themselves running short of workers, the problem may be the first sign of China's imminent demographic crunch.

The worries emerged as Chinese garment suppliers began having their bank loans withdrawn.

Falling prices replace sales decline in suppliers' worries

The volume of US garment imports in February 2010 from countries other than China grew over the previous year for the first time since the recession started. But, with average prices continuing to tumble, and US retailer margins soaring, supplier incomes continued falling. Though many countries' garment industries are now exporting more clothes than a year ago, their income is lower.

Asian sourcing likely to be transformed by EU FTA's

The EU made a range of announcements about new Free Trade Areas. If they materialise, they offer the likelihood of duty-free imports from Korea, India and Vietnam. Together, the three could see a substantial improvement in competitiveness against China, and undermine Bangladesh's position as Asia's major duty-free supplier to Europe

Bangladesh threatened by quadruple whammy

The currently buoyant Bangladesh garment industry was hit during February by demands from its major customers for higher wages in garment factories. A new wave of violence, some of it apparently carried out by officials of the ruling party demanding kickbacks, affected operations at dozens of garment factories, and the fatal fire at an H&M supplier raised more questions about safety standards and about buyers' liabilities. And EU proposals for more Free Trade Areas with major Asian garment producing countries raised the likelihood of the country losing its status as the only substantial duty-free supplier to Europe - just as Sri Lanka looks certain to lose its duty-free access. The country has even started to hit a labour shortage

Strikes return as food inflation overtakes job loss worries

Strikes hit the garment industry in Egypt and Burma, both of which have till recently violently repressed them. Though in Egypt's case, the strikes are partly the result of botched privatisations, both the Egyptian and Burmese governments seem to have moved to tolerating strikes, while intimidating them. As in Vietnam, the strikes are associated with food prices rising faster than wages, and with weak unions making conventional negotiations lacks worker credibility

Retailers take opposite stances in eco-race

Wal-Mart "will be the first to take a look at the supply chain on a global scale" as it committed to take 20 million tons of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions out of the products it sells, and revealing apparel is a priority category. M&S announced it would become " the world's most sustainable retailer by 2015"

Both have published detailed and wide-ranging apparel plans, based on widely differing philosophies. Wal-Mart concentrates on working with fabric, garment, detergent and washing machine suppliers to reduce the energy requirement in cleaning and drying, which generate most garment GHG emission. M&S's dozens of detailed commitments for how its apparel should be made at present merely encourage customers to wash at lower temperatures. 

 

State of Trade
US apparel imports finally show recovery
Japanese buys from China stay stable, though Bangladesh sales soar

China/East Asia
Demographic crunch behind China worries over garment workers' return
China surprises with further rise in banks' reserves
China's garment exports fall 9% in 2009

South Asia
H&M claim ignorance of previous deaths in Bangladesh factory
Major buyers demand on Bangladesh wage action as WalMart chief flies in
Now labour shortage hits Bangladesh
Bangladesh still blaming someone else for violence
Indian garment makers reject call for domestic sales as exports falter
India's dyeing crisis apparently calming down
Pakistan pitch for duty-free Euro-access shows falling competitiveness
Sri Lankan trade tries to keep EU duty free access
Sri Lankan wage dispute underlines worker rights breach.

South East Asia
UN blames Cambodian energy costs as job loss estimates grow
Cambodian wage talks break down
Indonesians forecast decline as "It's hard to compete with China's textile"
Laos reviews taxes on local subcontractors
Triumph Thai protest ends with sewing machine handover
Vietnam labour shortage gets worse
Vietnam's foreign firms face strike risk

EuroMed
Greek problems hit garment industries in Bulgaria and Macedonia
EU proposes duty free extension in South East Europe.
Egyptian garment and textile strikes highlight union weakness
Romanian Textile market sees revival of exports
Turks chase duty-free access to US.

Americas
Honduras sees surprise recovery as rest of Central America keeps slipping
Salvadorans expect 7-8% garment growth in 2010: Guatemalans 15%
US starts taking neighbours' retaliations seriously
2009 Haiti export data highlights importance of preference renewal
US Courts say discriminatory import duty might be legal

New Countries
Threats to Madagascar EU access fail to materialise
Central Asian republics still chasing textile production facilities

Buyers
Year-end results: Wal-Mart and Carrefour disappoint: other discounters thrive
Carrefour profits collapse as new CEO plans closures and revamps
Gloom over apparel retail IPOs
...and Fast Retailing reveals $11bn M&A fund
Burberry winds up Spanish ranges
Li & Fung acquires Visage Group

Sustainability and Ethics
Apparel retailers' eco-race shows wide philosophy variations
Fairtrade cotton slump has limited impact on producers
Dubious "fake organic cotton" claims reveal bigger problem
Delta Galil sets goals for sustainablility
Garment and textile firms test world standard emissions programme

Trade Rules
EU launches aggressive chase for Free Trade Areas. But overclaims
Trading majors use WTO to rule on disputes